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Mobile:- 9609740404(What's ">The bustling town of Shantipur in Nadia district of West Bengal, India, is just 90 kilometres (2 hours drive) north of the metropolis of Kolkata. It has recently been declared a city. Neighbouring Fulia is often uttered in the same breath with Shantipur, their contrasting backgrounds notwithstanding. Together they are perhaps the most renowned Bengal handloom saree weaving centre in Bengal. Shantipur and Fulia sarees are household names across India.

Shantipur has a history as a seat of Sanskrit literature and Vedic learning dating back to the 9th century. The first recorded references as a handloom weaving centre are over 500 years old. Fulia in contrast shot to fame as a centre of handloom saree weaving more recently, banking on immigrant weavers from Bangladesh, erstwhile East Pakistan.

The Shantipur – Fulia region has over 125,000 handlooms, churning out Shantipuri, Tangail, and Jamdani handloom sarees in a variety of yarns like cotton, tussar and silk. Dhotis, dress materials, stoles and scarves are also woven.

Traditional Styles:-

Shantipur saree:-
The ‘Neelambari’ saree was the first product that made Shantipur famous. The indigo dyed, midnight blue cotton handloom saree was so alluring that it was called “an enemy of modesty!”

The USP of the Neelambari lay in the fineness of the yarn and dyeing quality. Very fine hand spun yarn of 250 – 300 s was used for weaving, resulting in a powder fine texture. A heady mix of fine weaving and subtlety of design, the Neelambari was the last word in sophistication.

Today traditional handloom sarees woven in Shantipur have 68s to 80s counts cotton yarn in the warp and the weft. Cotton and silk yarn is used as extra warp in the border, and so is zari.

Another unique feature of Shantipur sarees is the finishing. The weavers here apply size paste (made from sago or popped rice) once while sizing the warp yarn and again, either by hand when the saree is still being woven or by fixing the saree to a frame after weaving is complete.

Fulia Tangail:-
Weavers of Tangail, near Dhaka in modern Bangladesh, were famous for the incomparable Dhakai Jamdani saree. After Partition, the majority of these weavers immigrated to West Bengal, a large number settling down at Fulia with government patronage.

Fulia weavers added a new jest to the handloom weaving scenario in Shantipur region. They developed their own version of the Dhakai, called ‘Tangail Jamdani,’ and a combination of Shantipur and Tangail styles called the ‘Fulia Tangail’.

The Tangail Jamdani is similar to the Dhakai Jamdani in that it uses interlocking extra weft cotton yarn to produce floral or geometric motifs. However, it has a softer feel and sparser distribution of motifs.

The Fulia Tangail incorporates vibrant colours and large, intricate designs woven in double jacquard. These sarees are also being woven in mulberry and tassar silk apart from cotton.

Jamdani:
Traditional Jamdani, the pride of Bengal handloom, is now woven in Habibpur and Ramchandrapur near Fulia. The true Jamdani saree is woven without using even a jacquard machine. The weaver uses fine needle-like spindles to conjure magic with extra weft work that can rival the most intricate embroidery.

Muslin yardage:
Shantipur and its adjoining areas had a tradition of fine muslin yardage weaving, with 600 s yarns being used. However, at present there is no major muslin weaving activity in Shantipur. The finest muslins are now woven in Kalna, across the Ganga.

It’s not that the Bengal handloom saree weavers of Shantipur and Fulia have remained confined in a time warp. A number of innovations in techniques and products have taken weaving in the region to the next level....

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ASHIS MITRA